Make up two supports for each motor, as shown in the diagram.
My can motors are about 1 inch in diameter, so the slider has to be
mounted at least 1/2 inch above the base, with the PCB approx 1/4
in below. If your motors are smaller, then increased packing
below the motor will be required. The PCB *cannot* be mounted
directly on the base if you are using edge connectors, as they
need room to slide into place.
Check that the supports do not interfere with the pickups.
If necessary, cut up edge connectors to include 15 connections. If double sided, trim off all the connections on one side. Trim off connections for tracks 3 and 5. (makes it easier). Ensure match with the PCBs.
If you require a lot of motors, make up one as a prototype, and
get all your dimensions correct. When satisfied, make up all the
parts in batches before assembly.
Complete all the PCBs, and complete the sliders. Cut and trim the edge
connectors, as required.
Build the two supports on either side of the PCB, leave for glue to dry.
Fit packing pieces under the motor (if required).
Mount motor, and solder the power leads to tracks 1 and 5.
Slide the 'slider' into place and push fit the connection onto the spindle of the motor.
Make up a test harness with a reversing switch and and edge connector,
and a power supply. Plug and play!
If the slider is so loose that it twists and binds, add some
micro-strip in the slider channel.
If it is so tight it won't slide, rub the edge of the slider on some
emery paper to reduce the width.
If the motor overruns, which it will tend to do on no load
conditions, reduce the supply voltage.
If the motor labours to move the slider, check for fit before
increasing the supply voltage.
Drill 4 mounting holes in the base.
Drill a small hole in the slider to receive the linkage, to suit the
mounting position. (see demo picture).
Mount as required and test.
If the motor overruns, reduce the supply voltage.
If the motor labours to move the point blades, bench check before
increasing the supply voltage.
It will be worthwhile to build a test harness using a spare PCB, two
resistors and two LEDs to check the supply wiring. Remove the
edge connector from the motor, plug in the harness to the edge
connector and check that the LEDs light up correctly.
As the linkage should be 'bendy', the point blades should be
held tight against the stock rail, for both routes. Adjust if
necessary.
Check that the frog polarity is correctly switched.
An interesting feature of the system: if someone fiddles with the
switches on the mimic panel while the supply is off: when the
supply is switched on, all the point motors will immediately
reset according to the panel. This could draw a lot of current
from the power supply, so make sure its big enough. Mine is fused
at 10amps and can throw several points at any one time.
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Quick list of railway features
Last Modified: 1st December 2003